How needle thickness affects permanent makeup results
How 0.25, 0.30 and 0.35 mm needles change pixel size and pigment retention in PMU, why a thicker needle needs more force and which skin it suits best.
In a previous article, we discussed the biomechanics of the introduction of ink into the skin during the application of permanent makeup. To recap briefly: the ink enters the skin at the moment of needle withdrawal, sucked in from the skin surface by negative pressure in the cavity left by the needle.
You can read more here:
The science behind permanent makeup: understanding ink introduction
In this post, let’s look at how the use of needles with different thicknesses affects the remaining pigment in the skin and the result of permanent makeup.
Just in case, let me remind you that three basic needle thicknesses are usually used in permanent makeup: 0.25 mm, 0.30 mm and 0.35 mm.

And the result of using these different needle diameters is very different. Everything is explained logically if we proceed from the biomechanics of the introduction of ink into the skin.
Needles with a larger diameter pierce the skin and leave a larger cavity into which the ink is drawn, so there is simply more ink. Therefore, the pixel size will be larger, and the residue in the skin will be larger.
When using larger needle diameters, all other things being equal (taper or needle sharpening), it will take a little more force to get the needle to the same depth as a thinner needle. This should be taken into account when working.
Thicker needles are better used on thicker and more porous skin, as this will give you more residue than thinner needles.
How the taper or needle sharpening affects the result will be discussed in my next blog posts!
Frequently asked questions
What needle thicknesses are used in permanent makeup?
Three basic needle thicknesses are usually used in PMU: 0.25 mm, 0.30 mm and 0.35 mm.
Does a thicker PMU needle leave more pigment in the skin?
Yes. A larger-diameter needle leaves a larger cavity into which the ink is drawn, so the pixel is larger and more pigment remains. It also takes a little more force to reach the same depth as a thinner needle.
Which skin are thicker PMU needles best for?
Thicker and more porous skin, where they give more residue than thinner needles.