Why lip PMU turns black after laser removal
Why red lip PMU can turn black under a 532 nm laser: iron oxides in the ink, how to warn the client, and how to remove the darkened lip tattoo with 1064 nm.
From the point of view of laser removal, lip PMU is a very problematic area. The main problem is that it is unpredictable whether the PMU will turn black after treatment or not. Let's start from the very beginning. Why can lip PMU turn black under a laser at all?
Why can lip PMU turn black?
Lip PMU is assumed to be done in red, and we treat it with the 532 nm wavelength of Nd:YAG lasers. Depending on the pigment composition of the ink used for the lip PMU, we can expect one of two situations. In the first situation the PMU simply gets lighter, which happens when it was done with inks based on organic pigments, and that is fine. The only difficulty here may be that the 532 nm wavelength does not have enough energy, so the process may be quite slow.
The second situation is when the inks contain pigments based on red iron oxides. Here paradoxical darkening may occur after treatment with the 532 nm wavelength. And it is impossible to predict it reliably.
Warning clients about the risks
Why is darkening almost impossible to predict? Because most patients do not know which inks (mineral or organic) were used for their lip permanent makeup. So there is only one thing left to do — warn the client that this may happen. Ideally, show photos of what may happen and tell them that if the PMU turns black it can be removed, but this usually takes more sessions, because after paradoxical darkening iron oxides take longer to remove than we might expect.
You can suggest that the client hide the darkened PMU with a heavy-coverage lipstick or cosmetic pencils, but you need to get the client's clear agreement that she can calmly accept such a result and is able to hide it under ordinary makeup for a year or two. Because some clients, after seeing photos of what their red lip permanent makeup could turn into, decide against laser removal.
In this situation it really is better to refuse the procedure, because if the client is not ready for her lips to turn black — and especially if you yourself do not know that they may turn black — it can be a very unpleasant surprise and a very big reason for a conflict, because there will be no going back.
What to do if lip PMU turns black
Darkened lip PMU will then have to be treated with the 1064 nm wavelength until it is completely gone, and this may take quite a long time. So the cause of the darkening here lies solely in the composition of the pigments used, but the decision must be fully informed and voluntary on the client's part. That is why you should always keep photos of possible outcomes at hand. It is better to frighten the client once too often and have her change her mind than to fail to mention this possibility and then have a very big conflict over black lips.
Conclusion: making an informed decision
Giving complete information about the risks and possible outcomes will help the client make an informed decision about laser removal of lip PMU. This is better than facing unwanted consequences and conflicts after the procedure.
Frequently asked questions
Why does lip PMU turn black after laser treatment?
When the inks contain pigments based on red iron oxides, paradoxical darkening may occur after treatment with the 532 nm wavelength. Lip PMU done with inks based on organic pigments simply gets lighter.
Can you predict whether a lip tattoo will turn black?
It is impossible to predict reliably, because most patients do not know which inks (mineral or organic) were used for their lip PMU. All you can do is warn the client and, ideally, show photos of possible outcomes.
How do you remove lip PMU that has turned black?
Darkened lip PMU is then treated with the 1064 nm wavelength until it is completely gone, which may take quite a long time. It usually takes more sessions, because after paradoxical darkening iron oxides take longer to remove.
How can a client hide lip PMU that has turned black?
You can suggest a heavy-coverage lipstick or cosmetic pencils, but first get the client's clear agreement that she can hide it under ordinary makeup for a year or two. If she is not ready for this, it is better to refuse the procedure.
