Acid chemical removers in PMU: pH, neutralisers and safety
Acid removers for PMU: which fruit acids they contain, why pH (4.5 down to 1.2) matters, why use a neutraliser and which ones beginners should start with.
Acid chemical removers are special compositions with which permanent makeup artists remove pigment from the skin. These specialised products are used to correct or remove failed work, as well as to cleanse the skin of artificial pigment.
Acid chemical removers of various brands for PMU removal
Features of the composition of acid chemical removers
This is a very heterogeneous group of compositions that may contain fruit acids such as lactic, glycolic, malic, phytic, and other acids in their composition. Usually, these are relatively weak acids that have long been used in cosmetology for superficial chemical peels. Still, in this case, they are introduced into the skin, not onto its surface.
The importance of information about the composition of acid chemical removers
At the same time, this group is very heterogeneous, and the pH level can be completely different, from pH, for example, 4.5–5 to pH 1.2. This dramatically changes the properties of these compositions.
Strangely enough, for some reason producers often do not indicate on the labels of their chemical removers what concentrations of acid they use, as well as what pH level. This is very strange to me because it is critical for assessing the aggressiveness of these chemical removers: a chemical remover with an acidity pH of 4.5 and a chemical remover with an acidity pH of 1.5 will differ in their aggressiveness to tissues and ability to cause inflammation and destruction in tissues by more than 2–3 times. Therefore, I’d like to ask permanent makeup artists who use chemical removers to always find out the pH level of acidic chemical removers because it is critical for the safety of the procedure.
If the producer, for some reason, did not specify or hides this information, justifying it by the fact that it is a trade secret, I strongly recommend that specialists use special test strips to determine the pH level of the acid chemical remover themselves.
Application and safety of acid chemical removers
Acid chemical removers are characterised by the fact that they cause relatively controlled damage in the tissues. This is known as coagulation necrosis. When acid is exposed to the skin, it interacts with the proteins of the skin, with collagen, causing it to coagulate.
Thus, when the acid interacts with the collagen of the skin, it neutralises itself, and, in effect, self-limiting damage occurs. But you shouldn’t relax and think that it’s safe, that the acid will neutralise itself and all will be well. No, in fact, acid chemical removers can damage the skin very severely and intensely, to the point of complete destruction, and cause scar formation. It is very good when producers supply neutralisers with their acid chemical removers so that it is possible to stop the effect of acid on the tissues. In cosmetology, chemical peels based on fruit acids are almost always supplied with neutralisers.
Neutralising and controlling the effects of acid chemical removers
In this case, I highly recommend you keep a balance between mechanical trauma and chemical trauma to the skin. The principle here is as follows. The more aggressive the chemical remover is, i.e., the lower its pH and the higher the concentration of acids, especially glycolic acid, the less mechanical trauma should be inflicted, and the remover should be neutralised whenever possible, without leaving the acid in contact with the tissue for a long time. Literally, it should be a very short-term exposure followed by neutralisation.
Advice for beginners on working with acid chemical removers
The general advice when working with removers is moderation and extreme caution. An attempt to remove the pigment all at once, to act more strongly, to remove more, very often turns into huge problems: destruction of the skin, prolonged inflammation, the formation of rough crusts on the skin and, as a consequence, the formation of scars. Therefore, if you have no experience with acid chemical removers, I would recommend starting with the weakest ones, with those whose pH will be around 4.5–5, and working very carefully with them. Yes, their effectiveness will be lower, but the risks of permanent damage and skin breakdown will also be lower.
Conclusion
Please do not rush in headlong, do not grab the first available chemical remover, but do it consciously, choose a less aggressive one, gain experience, develop an eye for how the skin behaves, how it regenerates, how it tolerates trauma and only then gradually increase the intensity of exposure. Even then, please do it very, very carefully.
Frequently asked questions
What pH do acid PMU removers have?
It varies widely, for example from pH 4.5–5 down to pH 1.2. Removers with pH 4.5 and pH 1.5 can differ in aggressiveness to tissue by more than 2–3 times.
How do I find out the pH of a remover?
If the producer does not state it, the author strongly recommends determining the pH of the acid remover yourself with special test strips.
Which acid remover should a beginner start with?
The weakest ones, with a pH of around 4.5–5, working very carefully. Their effectiveness is lower, but so are the risks of permanent damage and skin breakdown.
Why use a neutraliser with an acid remover?
To stop the effect of the acid on the tissue. The more aggressive the remover, the less mechanical trauma should be inflicted and the shorter the exposure should be, followed by neutralisation.
